Ben Nevis 1997 #62, The Whisky Jury

It’s worth noting that this well-aged BN was entirely matured at the distillery. As for the Jury in question, its reputation is already well established—but today, the jury is us (cue atrociously sardonic laughter). Colour: amber. Nose: this sometimes happens with active sherry casks—an avalanche of varnish and various solvents at first, then damp earth (potting soil), prunes, and chocolate, with walnuts even more present here than in other BNs we’ve been tasting lately. Then come beeswax and artisanal mead, not to mention a good kilo of very damp, very black pipe tobacco. After two minutes, maquis honey coats the whole. Mouth: that little touch of solvent reappears but quickly gives way to bitter chocolate and well-aged pu-ehr tea. Then comes a formidable salinity, complemented by a strong presence of walnut liqueur. Wonderful bitterness—it really feels like an old Palo Cortado. Finish: long and magnificently bitter, with the arrival of that famous mustard note we always love in Ben Nevis. Bitter oranges and equally bitter chocolate in the aftertaste. Comments: a lovely, bone-dry sherry over this undeniably world-class distillate.
SGP:462 - 90 points.

Nose: sour berries up front, always a good sign. Then this typical leafy earthiness, with somme dunnage notes and light concrete dust. Back to pink grapefruits. Some herbal tea. A whiff of thuja oil and leather in the background. Really nice.

Mouth: a tad funky at first, in a good way. It’s not a tropical fruit bomb but there are moderately Irish hints of pink grapefruit and blood orange. Nice chalky notes, something vaguely smoky even. Then tobacco comes out, with a little pepper and more leafy notes.

Finish: long, slightly herbal and dry, even a little salty, with the fruity sourness behind it.

You know I’m generally not the biggest fan of Ben Nevis from sherry casks. However this is one of the nicest 1997s I’ve had. Score: 91/10