Burnside (Balvenie) 1994, Archives

Only 58 bottles? From a sherry butt? Where is the rest? Paying off the Samoan fishing authorities no doubt! Now, this is Burnside, so we at least know the origins should lie within the William Grant stable of malts. Colour: deep, reddish amber. Nose: oooh, beautiful old school sherry impressions at first. Bags of crushed walnuts, ancient balsamic, raisins, sultanas and figs all stewed in old Cognac and some posh Irish coffee. A harmonious, pure and rather beautiful aroma that really screams old school sherry cask. Mouth: indeed, same feelings as on the nose. Only here there’s more bitter herbs, more wood spices, more earthy notes, verbena, roasted walnuts and green walnut liqueur. Espresso, the best bitter chocolate, salted Dutch liquorice and beautiful, old style rancio, aged pinot noir and soft notes of cough medicines. Perhaps there’s a simplicity to it but it’s direct, pure and vividly enthralling stuff. You could be sipping a 1960s Macallan. Finish: good length, rather leathery, perfectly earthy, bitter notes of herbs, black pepper and game meats, then blood orange marmalade and some ancient Cointreau. Comments: 58 measly bottles? I demand an explanation!

SGP: 562 - 91 points.