Croftengea 2007, The Whisky Jury

Nose: peated lemonade. There’s thick, muddy peat, forest floor and dried grass, but also clear lemony notes and lemongrass. It’s slightly feinty and bulky, with a whiff of asparagus, yet it also boasts minty freshness, raw cider and hints of carbolic soap. Then also raw wool and a hint of tobacco. A fat and slightly dirty nose, but the lemons totally lift it.

Mouth: zesty and chiselled peat smoke, with a big body. Fat sooty notes, barbecue and mossy notes. Then back to lemons and grapefruits, honeyed apple, even a little pineapple. Tarry notes, green leaves, plenty of warm ashes with a dash of seawater. A drop of water opens it up nicely and brings out more fruits.

Finish: long and good, still pushing these citric fruits along with the bulky peat smoke. Hints of raw barley, ink and green olives as well.

This Croftengea has some of the dirtier elements – a bit like Glen Scotia, only more powerful. On the other hand it shows beautiful acidic fruits, making it dark and bright at the same time. A solid selection – still some bottles available.