Secret Speyside 1990, The Whisky Jury

Nose: this is a slightly fruitier style, with a more ‘modern’ wood influence. Orchard fruits (green plums, gooseberries, peaches) with light blossomy notes, lime and minty herbs. A subtle grassy note and a generous layer of oak polish.

Mouth: oily, with a warm fruitiness again (apricots, oranges with peels) and polished oak. Biscuits, acacia honey, some mineral touches. Speyside but with a subtle Highlands element, I’d say. Hints of mocha, herbal teas and resin.

Finish: long, slightly citrusy, with more of this warming mocha and a drying / waxy note.

This may be a little more modern than the refill hogshead, but it’s still very impressive. A great balance of fruits, polished oak and waxy / resinous hints.
Score: 90/100

So no sherry this time. I believe more and more that those sherry-seasoned casks have to be perfect or should just not be used. On the other hand, the Jerezians and other bodegas in the south of Spain deeply need this business… Colour: gold. Nose: but naturally, this is brighter, purer, zestier, more refreshing even on the nose, better chiselled and with a clearer maltiness. With water: breads and cakes, plus dried yellow fruits and pastry dough, as well as whiffs of new dandelions very early in the mornin'. That is to say before the bees have come and plundered all the nectar. Mouth (neat): overripe apples, lemon zests, macaroons and finger biscuits, lemon tarte (with meringue) and tiny touches of papayas. As good as it gets. It is a rather 'lighter' Speysider. With water: excellent 'lightish' Speysider indeed, with good herbal teas and just a dollop of fir resin. Chamomile, vanilla, touches of aniseed. Finish: medium, clean, malty, fruity and herbal. Some grassier honey in the aftertaste, and just a little green pepper. And grapefruit. Comments: as good as it gets. Yeah, most bourbon casks work, while sherry casks ought to be perfect.

SGP:551 - 89 points.